After a productive and rewarding week of work, our group was ready to experience Malawi’s wild side, with a safari. We would come to do this at the Majete Wildlife Reserve, and more specifically the Thawale Lodge. The park boasts an animal population of over 12,000 individuals, which includes Africa’s “Big Five”. The Big Five’s members include the buffalo, rhino, elephant, leopard, and lion. This used to refer to Africa’s top five most dangerous animals to hunt in the early 20th century, which ironically (and thankfully) has now been turned into a list of must-see animals by tourists on safari, helping to promote conservation. Majete likes to call these the “Big Seven” as they include the African wild dog and cheetah. Majete has a wonderful and interesting conservation history that I would love to dive into here, but for brevity’s sake I will primarily discuss our group’s personal safari experiences. Though I strongly encourage the reader to check out their story on their website, as well as more conservation efforts that are happening right now within Africa as a whole.
Once we got by the gate and giftshop area, we were greeted by a small herd of zebras on the side of the road. Having never been on a true African safari, I thought us lucky to be experiencing animals right at the start, even before getting on a safari vehicle. I was naïve to how much abundance Majete had to offer. When pulling up to the main lodge: a baboon climbed up on a wall to our left and at the base of the wall stood a nyala (a type of striped antelope). Then, when we approached the main dining area, (a raised, open-air platform possessing a long dining table, overlooking a watering hole) I was stunned. There were so many animals: herds of antelope (impalas, nyalas, and waterbucks), troops of baboons, a couple of kudus, and an elephant. I was quick to take pictures of this spectacular site, but I was ecstatic to be able to actually see a wild, African elephant. The elephant commanded such majesty and respect with its presence, as it ate from the tree line that flanked the dining area. Later on, we even got to see a herd of elephants approach the watering hole. This is by far my favorite animal, and it was a dream come true for me to finally be in a place like this.
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We had arrived a little late on the first day, so the safari was ready to begin promptly at 4:00 PM. After eating lunch, we made our way to the vehicles (our group was divided amongst three) and went on our adventure. The evening safaris last three hours with one hour being devoted to a sunset view gathering. The first hour began with zebras and impalas. These were followed by many of the same animals we had seen at the lodge, including elephants and nyalas. Impalas were by far the most numerous “large” animals at the reserve as they were common on the safaris, at the lodge, and near our rooms. Specifically, you would always see a single male with its many female partners, that it would defend against other males looking to mate. After the first hour, we would gather on the bank of the river to look at constellations and enjoy beverages before going back into the vehicles to close our night with an hour of safari in the pitch black. Aside from a pod of hippos and a lone eland we saw with a flashlight later, there were no new animals that had not already greeted us when we first arrived.
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The second safari was in the morning and began at 6:00 AM, meaning we had to rise early from our tents and rooms. The morning was shaping up to yield Africa’s apex predator, the lion. A pride had been spotted near the riverbank, so all three vehicles were quick to make it over there. Unfortunately, we did not see lions at first, only signs of them. This included footprints, roars from the bush, and impala making warning calls. One vehicle managed to snag a glance of two male lions, but they soon disappeared into the bush. My vehicle’s first hour was spent trying to find the lions which I so very badly wanted to see, as it would be the next member of the Big Five, I could check off. After that endeavor, we went further into the bush than we had before and saw some of Majete’s quainter life including warthogs, Guinea fowl, monkeys, kingfishers, darters, and various lizards. We had a particular dry spell of sightings when suddenly, an elephant barreled through the bush and trumpeted at us. It was then quickly joined by a large herd with the matriarch (the lead female elephant) taking up the front and chased us for a good 2 minutes! This was highly thrilling to be a part of, but I would lie if I did not admit I was slightly concerned if the matriarch had caught up to us. Henry, our guide, assured us that “she does that a lot”. The safari would wrap up with a giraffe sighting, uncommon as there are only 30 giraffes in the whole park. Our driver thankfully let us bask in their grazing presence and take plenty of photos.
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Once the safari ended, we had some time to relax at the lodge. The group had the chance to see some warthogs come up for a drink, as well as a lone buffalo (though I was not there to see it). We were able to enjoy some time poolside, soaking up the African sun as well as be provided some traditional Malawian food in the form of chambo with nsima (fish with maize flour). When some of us drove back to the gift shop to do some shopping, we spotted a pair of lions on the side of the road! They were no more than 10 feet away from our bus and we were able to get some wonderful, personal pictures of the big cats. It certainly made up for not seeing any in the morning. The third and final (for most) safari began later that night, and unfortunately my vehicle did not get to see anything new from the previous treks. That is not to say it was not enjoyable as we still had the challenge of looking onto the bush and searching for any possible animals to point out to our guide. The experience is akin to a scavenger hunt, looking for as many animals as you can. That night as we sat on the bank of the river, we got to see a lone bull elephant wading in the river, in addition to a hippo fairly close to where we stood.
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After the final safari, I was feeling a little disappointed I was not able to see rhinos, leopards, hyenas, wild dogs, cheetahs, etc. Do not get me wrong though, the overall yield of animals was outstanding, it just so happens that a lot of the animals I listed are very shy and hard to spot in the bush. One of the rangers commented that the last time he saw a rhino was over a year ago. Additionally, most in my group had gotten to see three of the Big Five (buffalo, elephant, and lion), while I had only seen lions and elephants. That would soon change that night however, as I was surrounded in my tent by a herd of 50-60 buffalo making their way to the watering hole. I felt very vulnerable at first as these are large animals, let alone to be amongst a herd of them. The frightfulness gave way eventually as I was able to walk back to the lodge and witness the full might of the herd as they got their drink and returned to cover of the bush. Most of our group left Majete the next morning so that we could return to the United States, but a few stayed and got to see a pack of wild dogs and a hyena! It just goes to show how wild it truly is there, as those animals are not in a zoo for our viewing pleasure and tied to a schedule. They are all very much real, breathing things, that we have the privilege to witness in their own home. Places like Majete are special and I hope and pray future generations will be able to see the beauty that nature has to offer. This was an unforgettable experience and I hope everyone interested in nature gets a chance to experience this at least once so that they might truly linger in the serenity of Africa.
Blog post by: Caleb